Rome travel guide: Best local restaurants, bars and museums - The Washington Post
Rome travel guide: Best local restaurants, bars and museums
BREAKFAST
Roscioli Caffe
After they cornered the market on pizza and bread at Antico Forno bakery for four generations, the Roscioli brothers opened a neighborhood coffee bar and pastry shop, which, despite little standing room, never fails to please locals. Along with spectacular coffee drinks (hot ones come in heated cups), the pastries are divine. Many are old-school, hard-to-find Roman dolci. If you don’t do sweet, the selection of salati (savory sandwiches) is big and creative. Go for the thinly sliced pastrami on homemade cornetto and the club sandwich with an over-easy egg.
BTW: Come before 9 a.m. to get a place at the counter. The back table is bookable, too.
Roscioli Caffe, Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16, Rome
BREAKFAST
Pasticceria Regoli
As the centurion of pastry shops, Regoli is timeless. For more than 100 years, the multigenerational pastry shop in the Esquilino neighborhood has been serving its faithful customers cappuccinos and caffe with classic Italian dessertssuch asmostaccioli, profiteroles and mignons. Wander in and be mesmerized by the display cases filled with cakes, tarts and delicious seasonal treats such as the Easter colomba, frappe and bignè di San Giuseppe.
BTW: Regoli’s maritozzo, a cream-filled bun, is a national treasure. But you need to line up early or else you might miss it.
Regoli, Via dello Statuto, 60
LUNCH
Mercato Testaccio
This local market’s 100-plus vendors (produce, cheese, meat, fish, specialty foods, housewares) make it a great community hangout. Lunch standouts include fresh pasta of the day at Le Mani in Pasta (Box 58), vegan burgers and tacos at Sano (Box 3), mini pizzas at Da Artenio (Box 90) and fried delicacies at Mastro Papone (Box 96). In other words, every kind of eater can dine here all afternoon. Make sure to bring cash.
BTW: Stop at Mordi e Vai (Box 15), the sandwich stand where the nonni line up at 9 a.m. for Sergio Esposito’s panini. They include Roman dishes stuffed into bread, including trippa (tripe), allesso di scottona (tender slow-cooked beef) and picchiapò (braised beef with onion and tomato).
Mercato Testaccio, Via Beniamino Franklin and via Aldo Manuzio, Rome
LUNCH
Suppli
The supplì — a deep-fried rice ball in ragù with a piece of melted mozzarella in the center — is a beloved Roman delicacy. For nearly 50 years, Suppli in the Trastevere neighborhood has been the spot for supplì and pizza al taglio. Fresh out of the oven and crunchy, you eat them street-side, no questions asked. The shop also has delicious pizza al taglio (square pizza), including pizza piccante with spicy red sauce and no cheese, and it has more fried options such as mozzarella in carrozza, which is breaded and deep-fried mozzarella.
BTW: Check out Suppli’s daily specials such as gnocchi and lasagna.
Suppli, Via San Francesco a Ripa 137, Rome
Rome's 'king of carbonara' shares his world of pasta | Where Locals Go
5:31
Renowned chef Luciano Monosilio walks us through his signature dish, famous in Rome. (Video: Taylor Turner/The Washington Post)
DINNER
Luciano Cucina Italiana
Luciano Cucina Italiana is a next-generation trattoria, thanks to chef Luciano Monosilio. He’s known as the King of Carbonara, a title he rightfully deserves since elevating the typical Roman dish to Michelin-star status. The restaurant, with an absolutely-not-rustic, very contemporary design, features an exposed pasta lab and open kitchen and a menu with his award-winning (and must-try) carbonara and other traditional favorites. But the fun is in his creative Contemporanee (contemporary) and Ripiene (stuffed) pasta dishes: fettuccella ajo, ojo e bottarga di muggine — his version of pasta sauteed with garlic, pepper and olive oil and topped with cured fish roe.
BTW: Contrary to what you’d think, reserve no earlier than 9 p.m. It’s when Luciano gets lively.
Luciano Cucina Italiana, Piazza del Teatro Pompeo 18, Rome
DINNER
SantoPalato
Welcome to the next evolution of the Roman trattoria. Though SantoPalato’s vibe is retro with its sun-kissed orange walls, worn chairs, chalky chalkboard and vintage-inspired posters, chef Sarah Cicolini is cooking up the future in a menu grounded in tradition. Her polpette di coda alla vaccinara (oxtail meatballs) are a spherical dream, and the offals (organs) are amazing. If innards aren’t your thing, Cicolini has won awards for her carbonara and amatriciana.
BTW: You definitely need to book your table well in advance.
SantoPalato, Piazza Tarquinia, 4 a/b, Rome
LATE-NIGHT
Drink Kong
Patrick Pistolesi is one of the world’s best bartenders and a fan of “Blade Runner,” which he brings together in Japanese-inspired Drink Kong. Ranked on the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2021 for its drinks as well as design, Drink Kong is both a hangout and art space where counters and booths come together in dark hues and neon. The “New Humans” menu is almost conceptual, with drinks based on complex flavors. Behind the scenes is a wood-paneled shoji-inspired room for private tastings, and you can check out vintage arcade games on the way to Rome’s most Instagrammed bathroom.
BTW: Tell the bartender what you like, and they’ll mix a cocktail just for you.
Drink Kong, Piazza di S. Martino Ai Monti, 8, Rome
LATE-NIGHT
L’Angolo Divino
L’Angolo Divino is the enoteca (wine bar) of your dreams: a rustic corner spot with low lighting, lots of great labels and an owner, Massimo, who has something to say about every single bottle. The wine list includes the usual suspects (yes, you can try a Super Tuscan, Amarone or Barolo), as well as unexpected bubbles, natural wines and hard-to-find producers. The list may be heavy on Italians, but international wines are represented.
BTW: Ask Massimo about his favorite Lazio wines. A world of conversation and tasting will start, and you may make a friend for life.
L’Angolo Divino, Via dei Balestrari 12, Rome